|
|
|
|||||||
| 8 & 10 cyl Bristol cars Type 407 onwards - restoration, repair, maintenance etc |
 |
|
|
Thread Tools | Search this Thread | Display Modes |
|
|
04-10-21, 09:24 AM
|
|||
|
|||
Am back on the road - or I was briefly - but more of that later.
As per below have now been through front suspension in its entirety and then turned attention to the engine. Decided to renew anything suspect so new cam, followers, pushrods, water pump, timing chain and sprockets, valves, collets and had the heads done. Inlet manifold looked decidedly mucky particularly under the metal plate on the underside so took the plate off and there was a big crack. Had an extremely generous offer of a loan of a manifold from a contributor on here to get me rolling again - thanks again - but in the end SLJ were able to supply a second hand one at a reasonable cost. After a weekend of cleaning it to within an inch of its life it's now painted and on the car. After "breaking in" cam, initial driving impressions are excellent - not a night and day improvement but engine even smoother and handling great - and that's before doing the geometry properly. Only fly in the ointment was a petrol pong which I presumed would be something not done up properly in the engine bay. Not so - I had a boot full of petrol (again), culprit being the SU fuel pump. Have had enough and am going the Facet route - even if it means building a little sound proofed home for it in the boot. It might be of use to some to know where I got the various bits and bobs from so here goes. Timing chain and sprocket, full gasket set for poly engine, valve springs, harmonic balancer all came from Real Steel in Uxbridge. Cam, lifters, valves and collets came from Falcon Global in the USA. Pushrods from https://egge.com/ Bushes and other suspension bits from Classic Bristol Car Parts and SLJ (who also provided water pump). Track rod ends - Amsteer. Thanks again to those on here who have been in touch with advice and offers of practical help - much appreciated. Andrew Last edited by AndrewA; 04-10-21 at 09:34 AM. 
|
|
04-10-21, 11:28 AM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Andrew,
We put a facet pump in the boot of my 411 and used bonded rubber bobbin mounts to isolate the mounting plate I made from the boot bulkhead, when we fitted one on my 603 I followed the advice of the late Martin Barns and put the pump and a pressure regulator in the front drivers side wing bay where it works fine , I did not use a pressure regulator on the bigger engine and had no problems. Geoff.
|
|
04-10-21, 02:09 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Quote:
I've been using Carter fuel pumps - I say plural because the first one died after very little use - maybe that was part of the problem. I gather they don't like infrequent use and they are cooled by the fuel itself. One good thing about the Carter pumps is that they are relatively quiet - you certainly can't hear my boot mounted pump when the engine is running. They also come with rubber isolating mounts. I have an Edelbrock carb on my 411 and use a fuel pressure regulator set at 5.5 psi. My pump is connected to the original fuel uptake pipe, but with hindsight I would look at mounting the pump underneath the car to guarantee an instant gravity feed of fuel.
|
|
05-10-21, 08:35 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Fitted the pump this evening - went for a Facet Silver top. I used the same location in the boot but spent a bit of time making sure that it was unable to vibrate against anything and used the bobbins provided as part of the kit. On a brief test run it seems to work fine and to my ears is quieter than the SU - I cannot hear it at all when the engine is running.
Andrew
|
|
06-10-21, 05:06 AM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Yes I'm using the pickup from the top of the tank. The flexible pipe had all been renewed last year (from tank to pump and pump to hard pipe going forward) in an effort to ward off E10 issues and because the old one was pretty ropey anyway which made the pump swap easy - otherwise I would have done that at the same time.
The Facet pump also comes with the ability to change the pressure by unscrewing the bottom and using a different spring (like the SU dashpot spring!). The carb on mine (a 500 cfm Edelbrock) wants a maximum of 6.5 psi and the pump as it comes is 6 - 7 psi so I changed the spring to a 4-5 psi one. Happy to post pictures - will have a read how to do it! Andrew Last edited by AndrewA; 06-10-21 at 05:11 AM.
|
Hybrid Mode
