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8 & 10 cyl Bristol cars Type 407 onwards - restoration, repair, maintenance etc

Advice opinions please

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Old 04-08-20, 09:35 PM
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Originally Posted by AndrewA View Post
Re the heater matrix - is this shared with any other cars or does anyone have any recommended reconditioners of these? Thankfully it looks easy to access - unlike the left hand windscreen wiper!
I'm not sure which heater box you have on the 410. I believe that all 407-411 boxes have four exits into the cabin.

I have a heater box which I understand came from a 411 which has these in a single row; on the 408 box they are staggered into two rows.

I think it may also be that the 411 has a separate cold air box between the fan and the heater box.

The 408 may share a matrix with a 1970s Sprite (they look similar but I have not bought one and checked). I think the heater box itself is shared with an Austin A60.

I don't know what the 411 matrix or box is shared with.

Either can be easily recored - Aaron Radiators can do it for you.

A photograph of the two matrixes next to each other is attached - the bigger one is 408.
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File Type: jpg Bristol Heater Cores.jpg (485.4 KB, 35 views)
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Old 05-08-20, 06:25 AM
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There is an excellent article in the Bristol Owners Club Bulletin Number 142, dated Autumn 2011 which describes a 411 heater. The heater box in a 411 is the same as in a 410 but is relocated to accommodate a separate cold air box.

I found it extremely useful when I had the 410s heater out to replace seals etc. The heater box itself is apparently identical.

Two points

I found that there was a very simple gravity flap on the 410s heater which opens a direct path into the heater box from the air intake in front of the windscreen when the pressure in the former overcame the pressure supplied by the fan. So at speed the air doesn't all have to pass through the fan. I don't see any reference to this in the article, perhaps the 411 was different. I also discovered that the foam on this flap had long since perished causing it to close at intervals with a surprisingly loud, rather alarming and previously untraceable clang.

I see I marked up the copy that found its way into my workshop manual, at the bottom of page 27 to read "Slacken screw E ..........at the point F and retighten screw E"

One further tip. The demister vents work best when they are adjusted so that the vent exit is as close to the screen as possible. This requires more lying on ones back, the development of spider monkey arms and the deployment of much bad language.
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Old 05-08-20, 02:08 PM
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On the wiper box front, managed to get at it by removing the inside of glove box. Lucas part number which is stamped on it is 72729A - but seems to be unobtainable. There are other parts which fit in all dimensions except the width across the back (I have one in front of me!) which on the original part measures 10 cms and on the aftermarket stuff measures 7.5 cms which in practical terms means I am no longer clamping onto the outer cable - if that makes sense. Is there a way round this that I'm missing or do I have to re-do the cabling?
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Old 06-08-20, 07:17 PM
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What’s the problem with the existing box?
As I understand things the angle of wiper throw is determined by the size of the wiper box wheel
If only the wheel is a problem might it not be possible to fit a the wheel from the new box you have?
Alternatively the outer tubing is relatively standard and easily available and could be made up to a longer length, flared at each end, but you’d need to be able to get to the other box to fit it. You would only need to do that piece of outer cable.
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Old 07-08-20, 09:39 AM
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Morning
The teeth are worn on the wheel and the splines on the bit the wipers go on aren't great.
The actual rack appears ok.
SLJ have turned up two second hand ones that are the same size as the original one which they'll send me so I'll have a look and see if they're better than what I've currently got. Otherwise as you say I'll have to try and make one good one out of my original one and the new one - it doesn't look easy and is probably beyond me. Am trying to avoid dealing with the drivers side to be honest as it's all ok at the mo - but if all else fails I might as well re-do the whole lot with new, commonly available parts and know I'm good for the next 10/20 years.
Thank you for the pointer to the Bulletin re the matrix - as you say, an excellent article and a big help and the tip for the radiator guys.
I'm losing about half an egg cup a day into the engine bay and the occasional drop on my left foot so but am inclined to take it out and send it away and join up the pipes and keep driving - I appreciate that'll mean there's a little less coolant in the system but can't see that'll make a huge amount of difference.
For those that are interested the fan is now fixed and car much happier as it was running very cold (unusual for a Bristol apparently). This was not straightforward and involved re doing much wiring. It will now carry on for a minute or two to cool things down when car parked up - a function that had been disabled previously.
Went with electronic distributor and treated her to new coil, leads and plugs as well and she's much crisper.
Other things on the list are doing something about the seats which appear to have been raised with a block of wood between the floor and the runners, neatly covered in leather. I note from the picture of Stovo's car, the runners attach directly to the floor so will revert to that which will give me a bit more headroom. In the medium term will change the tyres as she currently rolls on a selection of SUV/Motorhome Tyres. Cinturato's or Vredensteins seem to be suitable - have previous experience of the latter which I found to be excellent all round, but will keep an eye out for price drops/offers as it's a worthwhile and important unpgrade but not inexpensive.
Thanks again for all the pointers and suggestions.
Andrew
which are
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Old 07-08-20, 11:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndrewA View Post
Otherwise as you say I'll have to try and make one good one out of my original one and the new one - it doesn't look easy and is probably beyond me.
My recollection is that the wheel, shaft and splines are in one piece, fitting into a threaded tube which has one half of the clamping piece attached. The wheel and shaft are held in place by nothing more than the other half of the clamping piece. I suspect it might all go together quite easily if the diameter and length of the shaft is identical, but you won’t stand a chance if it isn’t

Re the heater box, it’s worth getting it out if only to renew the seals between it and the scuttle. If you intend to drive it without the box you’ll need to blank off the holes that take air to the screen and feet, or suffer a lot of heat and smells. When I took mine out I found the ducts to the screen vents very perished and in need of replacement.

Re the bits of wood beneath the seat runners, this was how Bristols tailored the seat height for the first lucky owner - if he/she was shorter they were thicker, if taller they were thinner, simple and effective. It would be interesting to know if there were any lady first owners - Tony Crook once told me that he sold quite a number of cars (built to order) to people who had a more than adequate number of £ notes in a single roll in their back pocket. Not an image that either club would wish to associate with today perhaps.

Re tyres, my 410 runs on 411 wheels which carry modern fully rated SUV tyres. I find these a considerable advance on even the best contemporary tyres in terms of grip, wear and, in particular, noise.
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Old 08-08-20, 04:49 AM
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Certainly on the four (!) I've got in front of me it's a machined/pressed fit...on the one that's the worst, it's proving impossible to separate the front plate and the wheel and spindle from each other. The SLJ second hand ones look great so will pop the best one on and see if it does the trick.
Noted re blanking off and as you say am convinced a refurb/ seal renew is a very worthwhile mini project - notwithstanding the leak.
Thank you for explaining the wood - much appreciated!
First owner was an Italian Count apparently - current height suits my wife 5ft 3" perfectly - I'm 5ft 10" and top of bonce is about an inch from headlining. On plus side I certainly have a commanding view of the road from my lofty perch.
Appreciate wisdom re tyres - will do nothing I think until current ones getting tired (!).
Andrew
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