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| 6 cyl Bristol cars Type 400 to 406 - restoration, repair, maintenance etc |
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If you want to stay original-ish, the V8 Bristols had an expansion tank, at least my 411 does anyway. It is a cylinder about 12" long and about 4" in diameter from memory, made of brass I suspect.
Regards, Kevin |
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Kevin,
The brass cylinder you describe was supplied by Spencer Lane Jones directly to BCL as a better alternative - greater capacity and made from a used artillery shell. The obvious benefit of an expansion tank, especially in a pressurised environment like the V8 is that sometimes, due to many factors, specifically heat, the water will expand out of the engine, out of the radiator and into the expansion tank and out of the overflow pipe onto the ground - lost forever. If the expansion tank does not have sufficient capacity then when the water cools (after you switch off or go fast enough for the radiator to work efficiently, the reverse pressure (as water contracts) will suck in AIR and not WATER. This is why many older V8's with the plastic or small metal overflow tank are useless as during hot summers the water expands more than the contents of the tank, hence always looking like you lose water - which you do, unless of course you have a decent sized one like Kevin's. No pun intended. Clyde I pick up my Volvo Penta 2.5 litre short block this week to give my new special a boost in low down grunt. |
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The one on my 412 was made of steel (only the pipe connections were
brass) and corroded rather badly (eventually leaking). I saw a local (to Isleworth) 412 where the owner had had made a replica in Stainless - a catering utensils company had made it for him at fairly modest cost. As to the 6-cylinder cars, I have wondered about this with a couple of non-Bristols. It would be useful if someone with a better grip on the chemistry could reply to this, but to my mind, with a non-sealed system all the expansion bottle would be doing would be to collect the coolant that expanded and with such a system, the coolant would be exposed to the atmosphere and would still deteriorate at the same fast rate. Those who know better, please give the true answer? The last time I read an article on different types of anti-freeze/coolant additive, the conclusion seemed to be that if one used distilled water roughly 1:1 with a top-quality antifreeze in a closed cooling system, then one might expect it to last far in excess of 3 years. The further suggestion was that 100% antifreeze (if it did not find weaknesses in the system) would exceed 5 years. Although it was a good article in other ways, these final estimates were somewhat lacking in evidential support, alas. George |
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Hi all -
There are "modern" coolants better than glycol. I've had Dex-Cool in my Imperial/Mopar engine for "a long time" - it still is clear and there's no signs of corrosion. Of course, not much aluminum in this engine. This is the original formula Dex-Cool. It's been re-formulated because of some complaints and is sold in the US by Zerex/Valvoline. Their website states: GM DEX-COOL Approved Protection for up to 5 years / 150,000 miles Organic Acid Technology (OAT) minimizes corrosion inhibitor depletion Patented formula contains no silicates, phosphates, borates, nitrates or amines Excellent rust and corrosion protection Helps prevent boil-overs and freeze-ups Protects all cooling system metals including aluminum Surely there must be something similar available outside the US that will inhibit aluminum corrosion better than distilled water. Bob |
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What about Evans NPG coolant? Their website, http://evanscooling.com/main22.htm claims it as a cure-all for all ills including overheating since it boils at 190°C. It is a non-aqueous propylene glycol coolant, apparently non-corrosive and non-toxic. I think it is available in the UK, try ebay.
Anyone used it or have experience with it? Richard |
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Quote:
http://www.consumeraffairs.com/news0...m_dexcool.html Geo |