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6 cyl Bristol cars Type 400 to 406 - restoration, repair, maintenance etc |
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![]() Julian, many thanks for the prompt and comprehensive reply.
Some background - the engine in question is in a Werner Oswald Frazer Nash Le Mans Replica (WOK7) which uses, almost exclusively 405 components. The exception being the engine which, I'm led to understand was a new-old stock 85C (?) block totally rebuilt by Tony Byford to give circa 130 BHp using a Piper 'High Torque' cam (of which I can find no info) The Main jets used seem to be of comparable size to the AC Bristol that I owned (similar output engine) and my Frazer Nash TT rep (328/Bristol head, same carbs) by Steve Stanton circa 120BHP. Doulble checked the 44 pilot jet, and it is plainly marked 44. This is stamped on one flat of the hex, not on the end as with the other two. I'd attach a photo, but can't work out how to do it!! Regardless of the carb to carb differences, the thing I want to change is the emulsion tube on the centre carb as this is the one spitting back. I removed the emulsion tubes from the TT Rep (all marked 10) and, regardles of the different number, they look remarkably simillay to the L24. would you consider trying the 10 tubes (all of them) to see if it cures the spitting back a rasonable plan?? The question still remains - ARE EMULSION TUBES AVAILIBLE???? |
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![]() Are they similar to these as advertised on eBay ? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/262467467...IAAMXQTghRI8eH
I found a jetting chart ( from an old Bulletin or Newsletter I think ) which gives emulsion tube 13 as being used in the BSI engine, and L24 in the BSI mkII. |
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![]() Yes emulsion tubes are available - 10s are no problem the others are a bit harder - Classic carbs (classiccarbs.co.uk) have had them, classic carbs here in oz have 10s (classiccarbs.com.au) as do Rocky SRL in Italy (ebay store)
I'd have a chat to Tony Byford before mucking around - he's very good Yes a rolling road is the way to go Not withstanding my comments about the idiosyncratic parts bin approach, if the car was otherwise running well, then the spitting back may well be something simple and amenable to tuning - particularly check the throttle linkages - if one carb is not opening at the same rate as the other two you can get spitting back Julian |
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![]() Glenn,
You have mentioned all the jetting sizes but what are the venturi sizes. 403 - 406 have 26mm ID Most Bristol Sports engines , C,D,D2 have 28mm or 27mm The size of the venturi determine the size of all other jets, then compression and other factors have a bearing as well. The pilot jets #44 seem too small to me. I have found over the years that many jets have been drilled out but they don't necessarily flow at the same rate as expected. Do you have an inline filter between pump and carburettors as small particles can block or partially block the pilot jets. Are the throttle bases all the same , most Bristols have two progression ports but other bases from Standard Vanguard, Landrover, Jaguar etc mostly have 3 or 4 progression ports . Have the float levels been accurately checked, I have found an external sight tube from the main jet holder is the only way to do it accurately. Replacement carburettor tops are often machined differently where the needle valve is fitted, for different applications . Fitting a new needle valve with the standard 1mm washer can give quite different float levels depending the machining of the top. I suggest you start the tuning process with three #10 emulsion tubes and have each carburettor jetted the same. The emulsion tube holders can be different lengths which can raise the emulsion tube in relation to the float level , check the heights of the emulsion tube holders above the top of the main carburettor body, that they are all the same. Remember you most likely have 70 year old carburettors that have been through many owners and so called "Carby Specialists" who have modified and exchanged parts from other carburettors which might not match the original part. It might all sound a bit depressing but this is the accumulation of problems I have found in the past trying to get three Solex running together correctly, but on the other hand an original matched set in good condition mostly work very well and are easily tuned. When you are happy you have a matched set in good condition take the car for a rolling road session to check the mixture through the rev range under load and calculate the ideal distributor advance curve needed. Then build that curve into the distributor . Geoff |
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![]() I just had a look in my spares for 405 and 406 emulsion tubes.
I have what look like L29 with 3 holes and DL with 4 holes and a bit shorter than the L29 Neither of these seem to go with the numbers below and I think they came off carbs on stock engines. Any clues? |