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8 & 10 cyl Bristol cars Type 407 onwards - restoration, repair, maintenance etc |
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![]() What is the point of using a solvent free product?
No buzz - no joy!! No need to polish the last layer. I used the marine varnish undiluted for maybe 4 layers, with a flattening with Wet and Dry paper after each coat. This way I achieved a perfectly flat surface, masking all undulations and irregularities in the wood panels. For the last layer I diluted the laquer to thin it, and sieved it through a fine cloth to get rid of the little lumps. It does not matter hich product you use, you need several layers. The thicker layer - the better "depth". I forgot: If the veneer is cracked, it is usually better to give the job to a pro. No need to go to a person that does cars, I would go to a person that does furniture restorations. The same if I wanted to re-veneer the dashboard or the other bits. In 1992 I veneered the dashboard and gearshift fascia on my 1991 AR Spider S4. I hated the crappy black plastic. I used a veneer from the root section of Mahogany (proper Rainforest stuff in those days). Lokked perfect untill I sold the car in 2004. Marine varnish can take some water. Last edited by Janne; 25-02-11 at 12:34 AM. |
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411, body work, exterior, filler, paint |
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