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8 & 10 cyl Bristol cars Type 407 onwards - restoration, repair, maintenance etc

Bristol 411 bodywork

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Old 25-02-11, 12:25 AM
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Location: Grand Cayman
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What is the point of using a solvent free product?
No buzz - no joy!!

No need to polish the last layer. I used the marine varnish undiluted for maybe 4 layers, with a flattening with Wet and Dry paper after each coat. This way I achieved a perfectly flat surface, masking all undulations and irregularities in the wood panels.
For the last layer I diluted the laquer to thin it, and sieved it through a fine cloth to get rid of the little lumps.

It does not matter hich product you use, you need several layers. The thicker layer - the better "depth".

I forgot: If the veneer is cracked, it is usually better to give the job to a pro.
No need to go to a person that does cars, I would go to a person that does furniture restorations.
The same if I wanted to re-veneer the dashboard or the other bits.

In 1992 I veneered the dashboard and gearshift fascia on my 1991 AR Spider S4. I hated the crappy black plastic.
I used a veneer from the root section of Mahogany (proper Rainforest stuff in those days).
Lokked perfect untill I sold the car in 2004.
Marine varnish can take some water.

Last edited by Janne; 25-02-11 at 12:34 AM.
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Old 25-02-11, 09:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Janne View Post
For the last layer I diluted the laquer to thin it, and sieved it through a fine cloth to get rid of the little lumps.
I didn't do that. Perhaps that's where I went wrong, although you have to look at it quite closely to see that the finish is not perfect.

I think the reason I chose the (Wattyl) marine varnish was because it claimed to offer some UV protection.
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