Bristol 411 bodywork

[Janne]

Originally Posted by Kevin H

If you work on any of the timber, be VERY careful when sanding off the old varnish because the veneer is quite thin and it's easy to sand through it!

Cannot agree more!

I used a Marine grade varnish, "International" brand.
Several layers, a light buff between the layers. Dustfree environment, like a bathroom.
(the wifes love it!)

[GREG]

This is the highest gloss toughest finish and can be done in one coat !

SP320 Solvent Free Clear Epoxy Resin System - mbfg.co.uk

[Kevin H]

Originally Posted by GREG

This is the highest gloss toughest finish and can be done in one coat !

SP320 Solvent Free Clear Epoxy Resin System - mbfg.co.uk

So why do they say;

"When used for coating wood, just a few coats will provide both protection and a depth of clarity that can only otherwise be achieved with many more coats of a conventional varnish."

Nevertheless, it sounds like good stuff!

[Janne]

What is the point of using a solvent free product?
No buzz - no joy!!

No need to polish the last layer. I used the marine varnish undiluted for maybe 4 layers, with a flattening with Wet and Dry paper after each coat. This way I achieved a perfectly flat surface, masking all undulations and irregularities in the wood panels.
For the last layer I diluted the laquer to thin it, and sieved it through a fine cloth to get rid of the little lumps.

It does not matter hich product you use, you need several layers. The thicker layer - the better "depth".

I forgot: If the veneer is cracked, it is usually better to give the job to a pro.
No need to go to a person that does cars, I would go to a person that does furniture restorations.
The same if I wanted to re-veneer the dashboard or the other bits.

In 1992 I veneered the dashboard and gearshift fascia on my 1991 AR Spider S4. I hated the crappy black plastic.
I used a veneer from the root section of Mahogany (proper Rainforest stuff in those days).
Lokked perfect untill I sold the car in 2004.
Marine varnish can take some water.

[Kevin H]

Originally Posted by Janne

For the last layer I diluted the laquer to thin it, and sieved it through a fine cloth to get rid of the little lumps.

I didn't do that. Perhaps that's where I went wrong, although you have to look at it quite closely to see that the finish is not perfect.

I think the reason I chose the (Wattyl) marine varnish was because it claimed to offer some UV protection.

[GREG]

Originally Posted by Kevin H

So why do they say;

"When used for coating wood, just a few coats will provide both protection and a depth of clarity that can only otherwise be achieved with many more coats of a conventional varnish."

Nevertheless, it sounds like good stuff!

When it's applied on a flat surface, it can be applied thicker and one coat. It can be polished and it is the toughest product out there. I think it's the finish that is on modern car veneers ?

[Janne]

I think you are right, Greg, it is surely a similar product that is applied on modern cars interiors.

[Kevin H]

Originally Posted by Janne

Cannot agree more!

I used a Marine grade varnish, "International" brand.
Several layers, a light buff between the layers. Dustfree environment, like a bathroom.
(the wifes love it!)

I used Marine varnish as well (some Aussie brand), although I found it very hard to keep dust out, but I didn't do it in the bathroom!

I also tried polishing one section (glove box door) afterwards which didn't work out very well at all (not recommended!)

Perhaps an epoxy finish could be polished.