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8 & 10 cyl Bristol cars Type 407 onwards - restoration, repair, maintenance etc |
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One thing I should mention is that the old mild steel wheel nuts and collars have been nickel plated and polished (shown here), I was wondering if this could have affected them in some way, but I doubt it. The wheels have been back on the car for a long time (years) but it hasn't moved, other than on and off the hoist in the workshop occasionaly. The other three wheels on the car were rock solid, so the only explanation is that they weren't tightened properly on the one wheel. My guess is that an assumption was made that they were all tightended a long time ago, possibly by someone else. |
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![]() Kevin, What a shame after such a wait! I have found that Bristol wheel nuts
are threaded such that they are a very tight fit on the studs. This will often confound air driven guns into thinking they are tight. However, the strange thing is that if they were a tight fit on the threads, how did they back themselves off by driving? Very strange. I have had a similar problem with my Subaru after a garage swapped my car to snow tires but I stopped before the wheels fell off. The lesson. Always use a torque wrench to finally tighten wheel nuts. Peter |
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![]() Perhaps the rims are not suited to the nuts or vice-versa. If the chamfer
in the nuts does not mesh correctly with the hole in the rim, they will come loose. I assume Devon is still in the bottom left part of the country next to Cornwall? The equivalent of AA needs a new map. Regards, Dorien |
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![]() On re-fitting the wheel we did notice that you can tighten all nuts by hand, wiggle the wheel a bit, then tighten them some more and you can do this several times, so they are quite a finicky fit. This suggests that if you lowered all of the car's weight onto the wheels before fully tightening the wheel nuts there is a chance that you would not be able to torque them up properly with a typical cross style wheel brace, even though they appear to be very tight.
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