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6 cyl Bristol cars Type 400 to 406 - restoration, repair, maintenance etc

'One-Shot' to grease nipples

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Old 03-02-22, 10:53 AM
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Default 'One-Shot' to grease nipples

I'm thinking of removing the One-Shot system - it leaks badly from the ends of the steering rack until it has emptied the tank. On my car, it only feeds the s/rack and the inner wishbone pivots. I would like to use grease nipples and then use a slightly heavier grade of oil. Not sure what the threads are and if g/nipples of the same threads are availible.
Any thoughts, that are helpful, would be well received
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Old 03-02-22, 02:50 PM
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I understand why you would want to do this but it doesn't seem a very good plan to me. All the items are designed for lubrication with oil, not grease.

I had problems with the rubber boots on the track rod ends splitting soon after fitment and allowing oil to flow out. I then installed another new pair and wrapped self amalgamating tape around to reinforce the boots. This prevented them from splitting again.
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Old 03-02-22, 03:56 PM
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David C, As I said, I intend to use oil, not grease. However, I think that even semi-fluid grease would do a good job. All racks that I've come across over the years use grease. I can't think why oil would be absolutely the only lubricant that could be used. I can't see anything in the rack that demands oil, not grease. Could it be that grease can't be pumped through a 'system' easily, whereas oil can??
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Old 03-02-22, 04:55 PM
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I would be far less worried about the rack than the king pins. The Enots system maintains positive pressure with the air chambers and simply requires a push of the pedal every 70 miles or so.

I will be interested to see what other replies you get but I would definitely advise caution.
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Old 03-02-22, 05:48 PM
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As I said, on my car, it only feeds the s/rack and the inner wishbone pivots.
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Old 06-02-22, 01:25 PM
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Upon removal of the one of two tubing nuts If I find that the thread is the same as the grease nipples I have. So that original question is answered.

As I said, on my car the ENOTS One-Shot system only feeds the s/rack and the inner wishbone pivots. The king pins already have grease nipples fitted.
The w/shop manual recommends between 50 and 90 grade oil, depending on climate. Assuming that the grease nipples will not leak oil past the ball (a lot do, in my experience, even new ones! , can anyone comment on my proposal of using this set up and has anyone changed to this system, or considered it?
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Old 06-02-22, 11:32 PM
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Glen your certainly on the right track ,a lot of the Bristols in Australia have been converted to grease nipples over the years with great success. The problem with the one shot system is it has never been a great success because just like water or air under pressure it looks for the place of least resistance which means most of the oil leaks out of the most worn pin, therefore starving all the other lube points of their share of the oil.

I have recently converted my 403 to grease nipples but have retained the one shot for the rack . You will need grease nipples for the upper and lower pins, the king pins and the steering arms, that is, if I can add up, equals a total of 8 nipples.

You also need to remove the lines from the junction box that lead to the outer pins and block these off. From what I have learnt from other owners if your rack is in excellent condition grease may cause your rack to tighten
causing heavy steering. Best of luck , contact me of you need any advice
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Old 07-02-22, 09:35 AM
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Peter, many thanks for your reply. I intend to remove the whole system as it all needs work perfectly if it is to do what is itended. Not that I have any great love of centralised lubrication systems - blockages/kinked pipes/air leaks mean that it has to be perfect to ensure that things get where they're meant to go!! I prefer a recorded regular greasing/oiling session.The rack shows no play and does not stiffen on either lock, so it may be in good condition but I will run it on oil rather than gease. I just hope the nipples will not leak at the ball as this will some defeat the object, I may try bedding the ball in a little more firmly and test to see it they leak rather than fit them and then have to deal with the leak/s.
Before getting your reply I was thinking that I may be reading on unholy ground, but I'm pleased to hear that it makes sense to others out there.
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Old 10-02-22, 12:52 PM
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Peter, the initial reason for changing is twofold. Firstly, as I mentioned, I don't like centralised systems. Though the main reason is that the One-shot tank leaks and drains out through the rack which also leaks. So, if filled and left, I have to place trays under the ends of the rack to save oil puddles on the floor of the garage! And I still have no real way of knowing if oil is getting the everywhere it should. As I only have to deal with the inner w/bone pivots and the rack if I convert, I think I will go ahead and strip out the entire system and probably deal with the tank leak in case I want to refit it at some future date. My concern is that if I use oil it will, once again find its way out, though maybe slower as there is not the 'head' of oil usually contained in the tank. Can you give me your opinion on using, in the rack, semi-fluid grease with the addition of a little oil to lighten it it up a bit, as it were? At present I don't want to remove and strip down the rack to try and cure the oil leak. I'm hoping semi-fluid greas won't leak, at least not as much as oil.
I'd appreaciate your opinion and any info on what grade of oil/grease you use and where?
All good clean fun!!
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Old 10-02-22, 01:37 PM
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Glenn My brother Geoffrey whose name you might have seen on the forum gave me a lot of advice as I was doing my conversion. When he was building up, I think his first 400, he reconditioned the rack and used a grease nipple and grease. Because the tolerances were very tight he found that when using grease the steering was quite tight. At the time he suggested to me that as I was not reconditioning my rack that grease should be ok. It might pay to contact him for two reasons .1/ would grease be ok in your situation and 2/ why are you loosing so much oil into the rack . As I said I am using oil in mine and have not at this stage had a problem. Either contact him through the forum or he may see this post and answer.
Do you have nipples in the upper and lower pins , the two steering arms and the king pins ?
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Old 10-02-22, 02:23 PM
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Peter, I wondered if he was related. He has given me good advice in the past.
Hopefully he will have read this thread and respond.
Yes, I have grease nipples in the king pins (2) and also in the top & bottom pivots. The ball-joints on the steering arms do not have g/nipples but the rubber boot is able to be eased back to enable grease to be forced in which, if regularly attended to, should siffice?
Again, thanks for the advice and any further thoughts will anyways be welcome.
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Old 10-02-22, 11:22 PM
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Glenn the grease nipples I speak of in the steering arms enable grease to find its way down to the outer ball joints and up to the rack to lubricate the inner ball joints under the gaiters. I fitted them half way up the shaft and pointing forward for easy of access. All Geoffs ideas.
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Old 11-02-22, 01:15 AM
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I envy you . It seems odd to me that Bristol moved away from grease filler points for the moving joints. On my 408 it seems there's only grease nipples for the rear hubs. Everything else, it seems, needs disassembly.

David
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Old 21-02-22, 05:57 PM
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Grease nipple conversion going well.
I found that I gave some false information in an earlier post.
The threads in the inner wish-bone pivots is 3/8 24 UNF. The grease nipples that I have, some old ones, some new are 1/8 28 BSP. Just thought I'd correct that fake news!
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Old 02-03-22, 09:47 AM
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One-Shot to grease nipple conversion.
Before pumping Castrol Spherol semi-fluid grease with little added sae 140 (to thin it a bit) into the rack, I decided to try to assess any ‘stiffness’ this more viscous lubrication might produce. I looped a loop of string around a spoke of the steering wheel and attached an expansion spring to it. I pulled the spring until the wheel turned and noted how much the spring had stretched. Before I changed the lubrication, the spring stretched to 110mm before the wheel moved. I repeated this several times and got the same result each time – 110mm. I then took all of the One-shot system out of the car and let any oil drain from all the connections. After adding the grease nipples and the s/fluid & 140 mix I repeated the wheel movement test. Every time I repeated the test, the wheel moved when the spring stretched to 75mm. So much for making it stiffer, though I can understand the reasoning.
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