Bristol Cars - Owners and Enthusiasts Forum  

Go Back   Bristol Cars - Owners and Enthusiasts Forum > Bristol Forums > 6 cyl Bristol cars

6 cyl Bristol cars Type 400 to 406 - restoration, repair, maintenance etc

NEW CAR AGAIN.... 1956 Bristol 405 CHASSIS - 4106. 405GMT

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #41 (permalink)  
Old 20-11-21, 09:48 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2021
Posts: 108
Default

With twin carbs it shouldn't take too much work to fit and wouldn't have silly power.
Reply With Quote
  #42 (permalink)  
Old 20-11-21, 09:49 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2021
Posts: 36
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by David C View Post
That's exactly why I thought it would be a good choice. In basic form it should be very dependable with plenty of torque. Pretty much the performance Bristol were chasing with the 160 engine intended for the 220 chassis. What a shame that never saw the light of day
Yes, I watched the video recording of an interview with Syd Lovesy in which he talks about the 160 project. The intended engine for the 220 prototype being designed by Denis Sevier apparently came to nothing and as they say... the rest is history.

Last edited by Raymond; 20-11-21 at 10:21 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #43 (permalink)  
Old 20-11-21, 10:55 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: cheshire
Posts: 43
Default

Raymond,

Are you referring to the actual ally panels micro blistering or the paint work in this humidity ?

DavidC,

If it fits i would really be very interested in dropping one into the 405 !


I love power haha ! I wouldn't mind a Bristol Sleeper !

Indeed setup with Zenith or Weber Carbs it should be just right !
Reply With Quote
  #44 (permalink)  
Old 20-11-21, 11:06 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2021
Posts: 108
Default

It's an itch I really wanted to scratch. I had the offer of the engine and 4 speed 'box from a friend who updated to 3.3 litres and 5 speed. I was offered my late father's 405 minus drivetrain for small change but the frame was shot when he sold it in the early '70s and it had been left outside after that.

I don't know what the insurance situation would be but I think it would be possible to argue it was a direct development of the original engine.
Anyone with any experience please pitch in and tell us why not.
Reply With Quote
  #45 (permalink)  
Old 21-11-21, 12:54 AM
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2021
Posts: 36
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by hesketh786 View Post
Raymond,

Are you referring to the actual ally panels micro blistering or the paint work in this humidity ?

DavidC,

If it fits i would really be very interested in dropping one into the 405 !


I love power haha ! I wouldn't mind a Bristol Sleeper !

Indeed setup with Zenith or Weber Carbs it should be just right !
I am talking about the paint. Right now I am in the process of sanding down the steel bonnet of my TC project car and treating any rust (that had been painted over by the p/o) with phosphoric acid. Although not too cold, I am getting @70% humidity. The only answer I have come up with is to heat the panel and surrounding area with a hair dryer and then paint with epoxy primer.

This may all sound a bit desperate but I have done it before with good results. If I may say so myself, my GT6 was a better paint job than from new.

(Having said that, British Leyland cars were never that well finished!)
Reply With Quote
  #46 (permalink)  
Old 21-11-21, 10:37 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: cheshire
Posts: 43
Default

Raymond,

I thought so yes, i think i will be keeping this bare ally for now as i quite like the look of it ! May paint at a later date. Thanks for the tips ill keep that in mind for any other project cars i buy !

I completed the bonnet today on the 405 !

best
h
Reply With Quote
  #47 (permalink)  
Old 21-11-21, 10:41 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: cheshire
Posts: 43
Default

bonnet is now rubbed down !
Attached Images
File Type: jpg b1.jpg (527.4 KB, 15 views)
File Type: jpg b2.jpg (752.3 KB, 21 views)
Reply With Quote
  #48 (permalink)  
Old 21-11-21, 11:11 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2021
Posts: 36
Default

That should keep you busy for a while!!

Incidentally, should you need to weld any splits I recently discovered 'Lumiweld' a low temperature welding process.

There are also aluminium body fillers which also have their place.

At least you don't have rust to deal with. This is what I have been up to this week end, (sorry, no Bristol yet.)

https://i.postimg.cc/BQCGD0Mq/IMG-0934.jpg
Reply With Quote
  #49 (permalink)  
Old 22-11-21, 10:30 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: cheshire
Posts: 43
Default

Raymond,

Just been reading up on the cold weld process very interesting and thank you for letting me know about it - no doubt i will need to use it on one of the cars !

That looks fantastic ! how long did it take you and how did you do it ?
with a da sander ?

best
h
Reply With Quote
  #50 (permalink)  
Old 22-11-21, 10:31 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: cheshire
Posts: 43
Default

for sale tomorrow

https://auctions.hampsonauctions.com...pp=96&pn=1&g=1

powered by an Opel Manta GTE engine rather than its original Bristol unit

1956 Bristol 405

Registration - TOF 117

Chassis No. - 40514170

Maybe ill take a look at this engine swap too ?

h
Reply With Quote
  #51 (permalink)  
Old 22-11-21, 11:13 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2021
Posts: 36
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by hesketh786 View Post
Raymond,

Just been reading up on the cold weld process very interesting and thank you for letting me know about it - no doubt i will need to use it on one of the cars !

That looks fantastic ! how long did it take you and how did you do it ?
with a da sander ?

best
h
Good evening Hesketh. I am using a combination of a random orbital sander and hand rubbing down with 120 grit. I have treated any rusty areas with phosphoric acid and rubbed them down again.

I am not counting the hours but it would be more sensible to have the panels dipped. My biggest problem is that just when I need it the most, my painting shed heater has packed up! It is a race against time in getting the heater working again before the panels go rusty!

This scuttle top was the worst.

( Again, apologies for non Bristol content.)

https://i.postimg.cc/FHNSyRBC/IMG-0603.jpg

Last edited by Raymond; 22-11-21 at 11:27 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #52 (permalink)  
Old 23-11-21, 08:19 AM
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2020
Posts: 125
Default

Saw this and thought of you....https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/324884430...YAAOSw3WNhllca
Reply With Quote
  #53 (permalink)  
Old 25-11-21, 08:53 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: cheshire
Posts: 43
Default

Raymond,

Very nice job you've done there ! You working on it over the weekend ?
Oh yes I can imagine the scuttle must have taken quite some time !

Ive been reading about soda-blasting and i think i may buy a small set up to do the cars of mine - much faster !

Andrew,

Thanks for the link buddy ! My uncle offered me his already with trans but i don't think it will fit in the. engine bay as it looks to big, he's measuring it up this weekend !

Got a message from R Hackket @ SLJ Hackett telling me he may have found me an original Bristol engine to. drop in !

thanks
h
Reply With Quote
  #54 (permalink)  
Old 25-11-21, 09:17 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2021
Posts: 36
Default

The weather is not looking good for the weekend but I expect I will do some more. I managed to fix the heater and with the help of a hair dryer created a suitable environment for epoxy primer...

Some time ago I bought a sand blaster but I have been unable to stop it from clogging up, due I presume to dampness from the compressor. I have bought a new air filter so hopefully that will solve the problem. It should also help prevent micro blisters. One thing; it makes an awful mess. Filthy business. I always wear protective clothing with a mask and goggles; I also have a 5' square blasting booth... but after a while you can't see what you are doing!

This is an example of what I have been dealing with:

https://i.postimg.cc/Yq0zSdmd/IMG-0158.jpg

As I might have said; for what this lemon has cost I could have bought a decent Bristol. DOHH!

Last edited by Raymond; 25-11-21 at 09:27 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #55 (permalink)  
Old 25-11-21, 09:53 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2020
Posts: 125
Thumbs up

Good luck with the Bristol engine - sounds like a great solution
Reply With Quote
  #56 (permalink)  
Old 28-11-21, 02:04 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2020
Posts: 125
Default

Here's a couple!

https://www.ebay.co.uk/b/Bristol-Car.../bn_7025556366
Reply With Quote
  #57 (permalink)  
Old 28-11-21, 02:55 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2021
Posts: 36
Default

At those prices ?

Last edited by Raymond; 28-11-21 at 03:20 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #58 (permalink)  
Old 28-11-21, 11:49 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: West Wales.
Posts: 408
Default

They might make those prices if someone has an engineless AC Ace, Cooper or Frazer Nash but recently I was approached by a Frazer Nash owner who specifically wanted an 85c engine a few minor parts and a diff. He suggested a price I could work with for the engine at 10K but at the last moment claimed to have been offered a 100D engine at 12.5k with issues, someone I mentioned it to described it as scrap at that price for a 100D, so the best option lies with the 85C series engines and the 100A series engines both of which can be modified for more power.
My time wasting buyer did himself no favours as the engine he wanted to build should have been based on an 85C unit, horse water drink!
Reply With Quote
  #59 (permalink)  
Old 29-11-21, 12:05 AM
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2021
Posts: 36
Default

Funny you should mention Frazer Nash. I was looking at one only the other day.

Longstone Tyres at Bawtry own one and I was thinking how scary it must be doing over 100 mph with chain drive!
Reply With Quote
  #60 (permalink)  
Old 29-11-21, 12:31 AM
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: West Wales.
Posts: 408
Default

It probably was but driving then was about car control, before covid restrictions put us into lockdown I took my 401 LRU on its three brief road test runs, the first one or two I thought it was awful, fighting the remote change gear lever, missing gears because I could not remember where they where I was beginning to question what the hell I ever saw in them then on trip number three I took it a bit further and on the way back decided to drive it a bit hard, fast into corners change down keep the power on, pure bloody fun the magic was back.
More recently I have done a few runs with MXF which has a few teething problems as well but did a few hard charges up a local hill to try and provoke the problem, failed, but what fun.
As a VSCC friend said 60MPH flat out in an Austin 7 special is more fun than 120 mph + in a Ferrari and he should know he owns both.
Another great car to drive fast is an R Type or Mk Vi Bentley, heavy powerful and can be balanced on the steering through the bends and an awful lot of fun when you get it right, S2 Bentley even better performance up there with the V8 Bristols.
Total fun, Bristol 603 mine was set up by the previous owners and is a wonderful car to drive.

Last edited by Geoff Kingston; 29-11-21 at 12:38 AM.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
1956, 405

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is Off
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


All times are GMT. The time now is 07:12 AM.


This is the live site

Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2