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8 & 10 cyl Bristol cars Type 407 onwards - restoration, repair, maintenance etc |
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![]() oCoop - Halogen Headlights - Classic Mini Cooper Enthusiasts
removal of Mini headlamp - same. cranked screw driver items - Get great deals on Home Garden items on eBay UK! Side trim is bolted on. Your painter may not need the grill removing. |
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![]() Bristol Ltd have the corect rubber for the windscreens.
I do not want to be nasty, but it sounds from your posts like you have a very limited experience with car restoration. I am not sure you should do a Bristol as a first car. Any possibility to post some pics of the car? |
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![]() Quote:
It is, however, a constant learning experience and we all have to start somewhere and I started on my 408 (Mk. I) dealing with de-corrosion under the failed underseal (but not very much of the necessary welding), softening the leather, then replumbing the braking system and overhauling the calipers, sorting out the cooling, dealing with the exhaust system, various bits and pieces to the engine, trim, electrics and a host of other things that greatly improved my knowledge. I went on from this to do far more to an Alvis TC21/100 (a lot of work there), another 408 (Mk. II), R-type Bentley, P4 Rovers, Singer Chamois, and three old Volvos, but so much of the basics was learnt on the Bristol. Geo. |
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![]() I agree that a Bristol is no more complicated than most other classics, but you do need a pro to get the paint right.
You don't need to be an expert to strip it and send bits off for chrome and wheels for powder coating. |
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![]() I understand the OP is trying to restore his fathers Bristol. Personally, I would try to get a 100% perfect result. The dent in the front of the roof should be taken out from the inside. When the front windscreen is removed, this is a fairly easy thing to do. I would remove all fillers, and rectify the problems properly.
Yes, it is time consuming and takes some skill (the suggestion to practice on a Defender is superb!) but it will be worth it. Before any paintwork, I would first start to investigate if there are any corrosion in the frame suporting the panels, any corrosion in the steel panels in the wheel arches and if at any area the aluminium is getting thin (due to corrosion). When I restore a vehicle (I have a AR Junior, Saab 92, prewar MB 230S, prewar BMW 328, 2 LR Defenders, the Bristol and about 7 motorcycles behind me) I first make a plan. The first decision is, shall I do just an aesthetic restoration, (OK on a lower value vehicle) or a thorough one? If done properly, the restoration of OP's father car will not only increase the value, but will also last. As the saying goes, we learn from our misstakes. I did learn a lot from my (many) misstakes! |
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![]() Hi All,
Greg – excellent link to the mini headlamps page, thanks! Janne – you’re accurate in your understanding, I am a novice! And I therefore appreciate all the helpful advice you have provided! I will be down at my parents house next weekend so will hopefully upload some photos and you can see the current condition. My father’s original intention was to strip the paint to the bare aluminium and then treat with a protective coating (no paint respray), but as we strip the paint off it looks like this will not be possible (too many small scratches etc.) A professional paint job might well be the way forwards, but for now we will continue to do as much as we can ourselves. One more question, as the car is not garaged, but under a gazebo-type marquee (no sides), could anyone recommend a reputable external car cover manufacturer? Hopefully get some photos uploaded end of next week. |
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or cheap rubbish 6m x 3m GAZEBO EZ Pop Up Instant Marquee Canopy Tent B on eBay (end time 06-Feb-11 09:00:56 GMT) I bought the latter and the snow destroyed it :-( |
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Tags |
411, body work, exterior, filler, paint |
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