Running temps, Australian 409

[MYTA21]

Thanks Greg,
I'm on to that shortly.
BR
Mike

[MYTA21]

I havenow completed my cooling system work on the 409. Radiator was removed and dismantled, with some blocking noted, but repairer said core was of top quality and servicable.
New thermostat fitted.
Present Kenlowe fans changed to locally available here in Australia, David Craig ones. I had put a new motor ( MGB) on one fan, but the shrouds were rickety and the new fans fit closer to the radiator. Fan switch was questionable, so ordered one from BCL at 49 GBP + VAT if applicable.
Item is actually SU part number C 18559 for reference.
All refilled again, then flushed after trip and refilled with coolant.
I did notice that when the fans are on, there is a passage of air out of the gap between top of the radiator and front cover plate, so I am putting in a plastic piece across, so as to maximise air flow through radiator.
Then, hopefully, it's Victoria's RACV "Fly The Flag Rally" here we come.
Mike O

[Kevin H]

Mike, have you done away with the fan shroud and mounted the new fans directly against the radiator? (any pictures?)

I have added an extra fan to the back of my rad to pull air through - there are two pushing from the front.

Initially I thought it had done the job, because I sat watching the temp gauge and the fans kicked in at 75 degrees C and brought the temp down and the fans turned off again. Previously the temp would just keep going.

However, after the car had been sitting running for half an hour and I switched on the air con them temp kept rising to over 90. I turned off at that point because being a new engine I don't want to cook it.

It's still not registered (still have oil leaks which would fail the roadworthy) but I might get another unreg vehicle permit today and take it for a decent run over the weekend and see what happens. I'm fairly sure it won't overheat when it's moving, but it's when it gets stuck in traffic that worries me.

Kevin

[MYTA21]

Hello Kevin,

The two new fans from Davis Craig are mounted close up to the radiator on
the front face.
None of the Bristol/Kenlowe shroud is fitted. The arrangement gives lot more
space and visibility/
I might be able to get some photos shortly. They were mounted on with with
alloy brackets made up locally. Standard option is to use the long thin
bolts that pass through the fins, but the gap on the Bristol rad is pretty
small.
The chap who offered to do my air con says he would be fitting them on the
engine side of the rad, but it would be no great job to get this changed if
I go to air con.
Before the rad clean out, the fan switch came in around the 85C mark, but
tended to cut in and out a lot. After the rad clean out, the fan switch
appeared to operate from cold! Therefore, I bought a new one from BCL. I
would say it comes in at 85-90. Car will rise to 90 if left to idle for
length of time, but not go above that.

BR
Mike

[Bellerophon]

Kevin, It is not a good idea to let your car sit with the engine running
for half an hour, this will not do the engine any good as you need the higher
revs, to fling oil up the bores. The higher revs, of the engine is the
only way you can lubricate the bores, so take it for a drive.
My regards,
Bellerophon

[pasini s]

Hello Mike,

I have exactly the same problem on my 409 with the fans kicking in from a
very cold temperature after I had the radiators (heater+engine) recored. I
would like to buy the switch you mention, where did you buy it? Original
Otters are not available at the moment, it seems. But now the car runs very
cool (max 80°c on the highway) even with the fans disconnected; I switch
them on manually in dense traffic.

Thanks

Stefano

[MYTA21]

Hello Stefano
A pleasure to possibly help with a a posting actually on a techinical issue
of our cars!
The switch from Bristol Cars was sent out quickly 907-1-20230 c/w gasket. It
was bagged in an SU packet part numbered C18559. Small label reads LONG TYPE
OFF 80C ON 90C
Cost was 48.86 GBP, exc tax
In addition to the supply from BCL, I noted that the SU Carb agents in the
UK list the switch at 30 GBP and you might get it locally from an SU agent,
such as MIDEL, here in Australia. However, I am not advocating buying parts
from other suppliers, as BCL do provide the service on a wide range of items
and items arrive here in Australia from the UK in about a week.
I think my switch was becoming faulty before the radiator was dismantled
and possibly the heat in the area when the header tank was removed just
finished it off.
BR
Mike O

[Kevin H]

Originally Posted by Bellerophon

Kevin, It is not a good idea to let your car sit with the engine running for half an hour, this will not do the engine any good as you need the higher revs, to fling oil up the bores. The higher revs, of the engine is the only way you can lubricate the bores, so take it for a drive.

Thanks for the advice Alan.

What about when people get stuck in traffic jams? I know you can turn the engine off, but if it's 35 degrees C outside you need to run the engine to keep the air con running.

Part of my problem at the moment is the car is not registered because it won't pass the roadworthy inspection due to oil leaks (from a brand new engine!), so I can't legally take if for a drive without an unregistered vehicle permit.

It did have an outing yesterday on such a permit and our "test drive" happened to include a visit to the RACV-AOMC Classic Showcase for British and European Cars here in Melbourne.

It behaved very well, with the temp not rising above 90, although it is clear that running the air con does raise the temperature, even on a relatively cool day (22 deg C).

A friend was following me (in an Atom) and he said he could easily see a "heat plume" from my car when it was stationary!

Unfortunately is is also still spewing out oil from at least two places, and is also leaking transmission fluid.

Regards,
Kevin

[John Keighley]

At the end of last week, I took our 410 to Premier Instruments in Canberra who had arranged for the overhaul of the original temperature gauge when the car was restored. The gauge had packed up during reassembly. After it was refurbished, it was reinstalled into the car and it's interesting to note that I am now getting higher temp readings (80-85 and sometimes edging towards 90 on the highway as opposed to 80-85 on the borrowed aftermarket one.
Can anyone please tell me what the correct Ammeter should be in the 409/410? The one I have in the 410 is a Lucas with a +50 to -50 scale rather than a Smiths. I'm wondering if this is original in view of the fact that the people from Premier Instruments are doubtful.
John Keighley.