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8 & 10 cyl Bristol cars Type 407 onwards - restoration, repair, maintenance etc

fuel vaporization

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Old 13-09-24, 10:53 AM
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Thanks for that, I will make up a part and fit. All my troubles will be over.
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Old 13-09-24, 11:07 AM
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Oh to have so few troubles... (I think modern yoof would insert a smiley face at this point)

As much as I am an ardent fan of informed DIY, unless I am underestimating your expertise in this field I would suggest you modify your expectation of success making a suitable insulator with materials that are readily available.
Per my previous post the Edelbrock 9266 seems to work well and I think has better heat blocking properties than most straightforward alternatives.

Best of luck!
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Old 16-09-24, 11:00 AM
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It's a common problem with V8s, with the carb on a cast-iron manifold directly above the cast-iron engine = massive heat soak. On my 411 the problem was exacerbated by the exhaust diverter flap between the driver's side exhaust manifold and downpipe being seized largely shut, so the driver's side exhaust gases passed through the cross-over passage in the intake manifold under the front of the carb, which heated the intake up even more. Or they leaked out through the broken housing. As I don't drive my car in freezing weather, and got so sick of the carb I fitted a Holley Sniper (thus greatly diminished worries about carb freezing) I binned the diverter mechanism and fitted a c.1" spacer plate in it's place, and changed the intake manifold valley pan and gaskets to ones with the crossover blocked. See a 2023 (I think!) BODAcious article for more detail and pics.
So suggest checking that too.
Plus carb insulator as discussed.
You could also fit a low-pressure electric pump to on a separate switch & relay to pump fuel from tank to the normal mechanical pump, to save all the churning of starter motor?
Good luck.
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