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8 & 10 cyl Bristol cars Type 407 onwards - restoration, repair, maintenance etc

603 - electric windows

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Old 13-03-22, 10:49 PM
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Are you able to post a copy of the diagram?
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Old 14-03-22, 12:54 AM
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Just found a schematic.

Are you able to swap out the passenger side switch with the driver's window switch?

As the driver's side switch for the passenger window is used at rest to supply power to the passenger side switch, both switches need to work to allow operation. You have tested both switches on the driver's door but seemingly not the switch on the passenger door.

It looks as though the breakers for the driver's side are in the positive line but those on the passenger side are on the negative line.

With all switches at rest it looks as though both motors have +12V on both wires relative to ground.

Let us know if you are still struggling and I will try to do diagrams showing current path for each option of switch operation.
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Old 14-03-22, 10:59 AM
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Default 603 Electric windows

Very helpful responses to date.
Continuity of wires... I have checked about 30 different cable linkages but I cannot find a record of testing between the motor and the switch so will do so starting with the SR and SU in turn but have difficulty in understanding the circuitry, I presume if SU supplies voltage then SR is returned to earth? via Ru? and then supply to RU operates the window in the opposite direction?
I have not swapped the passenger two switches as I assumed fault on drivers side. Will do that.
I am trying to send a copy of the wiring diagram but it will not transfer altho I have reduced to below 1 MB. will keep trying.
sorry, not successful
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Old 14-03-22, 11:38 AM
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Understanding what the switches do is the key.

The motor is fed from the middle contacts of the passenger door switch. In its rest position the driver's door switch for the passenger window simply passes positive supply volts to the passenger door switch.

I have had a go at uploading images but only managed thumbnails. If someone can explain how to attach full size images I will try to make a better job of it.
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Old 14-03-22, 02:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David C View Post
I have had a go at uploading images but only managed thumbnails. If someone can explain how to attach full size images I will try to make a better job of it.
David,
Your uplaoded images are okay; only the thumbnails are shown in the post, but if anyone clicks on the thumbnail they will see the full size image.

The wiring diagrams are in the Resources section of the site here Resources - Bristol Cars - Owners and Enthusiasts Forum

Kevin
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Old 14-03-22, 02:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter Hoskin View Post
I am trying to send a copy of the wiring diagram but it will not transfer altho I have reduced to below 1 MB. will keep trying.
sorry, not successful
Peter,
If you are trying to upload the wiring diagram, the size limit for most image file types is actually now 2Mb. But feel free to email to me and I will upload them if required - webmaster@bristolcars.info

Also, there are wiring diagrams available in the Resources section of the web site here

Resources - Bristol Cars - Owners and Enthusiasts Forum

Kevin
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Old 14-03-22, 02:15 PM
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I haven't had any time to look into this issue or check the wiring diagrams, but are there any microswitches which detect the upper or lower limits of the window travel?
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Old 14-03-22, 02:30 PM
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Thanks, Kevin. Is there a way to get the images into the body of the text?
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Old 14-03-22, 10:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David C View Post
Thanks, Kevin. Is there a way to get the images into the body of the text?

It may be possible but the forum software is not configured to facillitate this. One of the reasons for this was because the system did not auto-size the photos so we were getting massive images in posts which distorted how the posts displayed.

Maybe in the next version of the site if I can ever find the time to update it!
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Old 08-07-22, 11:24 PM
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Smile Bristol 603 - window operation

Partial success. I did tests as described by Davis C and found that the drivers switch when stationary was passing my 2v test lamp currents but not the current demanded by the headlamp load. Meanwhile a new switch arrived but had only three connections. Cannibalised the inside of the new with the casing of the old and on test it restored the passenger switch to full working order but the drivers switch is problematical on the UP action, ok on DOWN. Suspect will have to strip it again and check the contacts. Happy to accept what I have until I have more time. Thank you to all who have contributed with advice and information.
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