How do I remove gauges/instruments in 408 and ammeter v voltmeter ?

[dwomby]

Originally Posted by John Keighley

David,

It's best to remove the steering wheel first. The binnacle has two screws on top and lower down. Once the binnacle is off, the instrument panel can be moved forward. Each instrument must have both the lighting wiring and the information sender wiring removed. There is a metal bracket held on with two knurled knobs that screw on to studs attached to the rear of each instrument. Undo these and remove the bracket and the unstrument will come free.

John K.

Thanks, John

[peter dowdle]

Very interested in the advice given which I am sure is very accurate. I recently did a lot of work in this area on my 411 and 412. My approach was to undo the 2 screws that hold the timber panel in place and prize the timber panel forward. The only problem I had doing this is that you would need to undo the speedo cable from the back of the speedo once you get things moving to enable the timber to move forward far enough to enable good access to the back of the gauges.

The fuel gauge in my 412 sat on empty. Replacing the tank sender solved the problem.

The 412 had an aftermarket amp meter when it should have had a volt meter. This required my auto electrician to correct the wiring.

Best of luck

[PEU186F]

Originally Posted by peter dowdle

The fuel gauge in my 412 sat on empty. Replacing the tank sender solved the problem.

Peter, et al

The 411 wiring diagrams on this site show that there was a step change in wiring and fusing practises after the 410, fusing in particular was vastly improved. They also show that the fuel and temperature gauges were fed by the voltage stabiliser which is required by the gauges that incorporated a heated bimetallic strip, that were the standard by this time. These will show empty if the tank sender or wiring fails to open circuit. This type of gauge characteristically takes a little time to react when you turn the ignition on but does have the advantage that it doesn’t waver about as the fuel sloshes about in the tank.

The gauge used in the 410 and earlier cars , which relies on opposing electromagnets, doesn’t require voltage regulation, does react instantly when one turns the ignition on and does waver about as the fuel moves about and also fails to (beyond) full if the tank sender or its wiring go open circuit.

Note that the tank senders have to have different characteristics to operate the two different types of gauge correctly, one shouldn’t change one without changing the other.

I trust this clarification may be a help to somebody someday

Roger