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8 & 10 cyl Bristol cars Type 407 onwards - restoration, repair, maintenance etc |
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![]() I have returned home after two weeks in the sun to kill off some of the
winter weather, however, I have not been pleased to read some of the items on the forum. First wheels do not come loose unless something fractures, they come loose because they have not been fitted correctly! In most cases it is because the wheel has not been located in its right position, that is not square and flat on its central location, the nuts are tightened but are not fully home, thus when the wheel rotates the wheel seats itself and low and behold the nuts are loose. The correct way to fit a wheel especially when the wheels have been off for some time is to wire brush the wheel, its location and the studs to make certain that they are perfectly clean. (the studs and nuts should also be washed afterwards). The studs and wheel location should then have a thin smear of grease (if this is not done to the wheel surfaces you can end up with a creaking wheel), but above all make certain the wheel is correctly located before the nuts are fully tightened home. If this is done they will NOT come loose. My regards, Bellerophon |
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![]() kevin as i mentioned i made my own wheel nuts and spacers
purchased propritory chrone mag wheel nuts from ant tyre service drilled the threads out and re tapped to correct bsf thread designed and made up on lathe correct tappered spacers had them platted they work perfectly and look correct regards peter dowdle |
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![]() Peter, that's an interesting way to do it, using existing nuts - I hadn't thought of that. One downside for myself and no doubt some others, would be the fact that we would also have to buy a lathe! Which probably means it would be cheaper to buy the SS nuts from Bristol.
Personally I took a slightly different route - I took the nuts and collars I had bought secondhand from Bristol, cleaned them up, had them nickel plated and polished. The polished nickel plate is a slightly different colour to chrome but it's much tougher, so it's less likely to crack and chip like chrome always seems to do eventually. I'm happy with the results - see (rather poor) picture attached. If the price was reasonable however, I would go for polished stainless steel. Regards, Kevin |
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![]() kevin
kevin the wheel nuts pictured are different than the ones I copied from john mays 411 mk 5 , in that the distance they pertrude into the wheel , that is from the base of the washer to the bottom of the nut on his car is .551 inch . Yours seems much shorter. I have a diagram that geoff drew from johns car. The nuts I made when tightened almost touch the axle stub. What all this means I am not sure ! peter dowdle |
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![]() Peter,
I'm not able to measure mine right now because the car isn't at home, but my nuts were originals (used) bought from Bristol Cars Services. The thread length is quite substantial. That photo was taken several years ago and it is possible that the nut wasn't all the way home in the collar/washer when the photo was taken. Kevin |
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![]() Quote:
In Aug/Sept 2000 (pre BEEF) I came close to getting ss nuts and washers made here in Australia but the min quantity was 1000. From memory it was going to cost me around AUD$10k, but I couldn't get sufficient commitment from owners via the BOC Forum. Bristol themselves were interested, they even supplied me with the necessary steel specs, but they wouldn't commit to buy any without seeing a sample. Fair enough I suppose but I couldn't get a 'sample' made without the other 999! I did go ahead and get barrel nuts made which are needed for the exhaust manifolds on the 400 cid engines and I still have hundreds of them in my garage! After that little lesson I decided not to go ahead with the wheel nuts. |