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8 & 10 cyl Bristol cars Type 407 onwards - restoration, repair, maintenance etc |
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![]() Rodger thank you for that. We are off on a 5 day Bristol Rally starting tomorrow morning . Brother Geoff is a member of the UK club so should have the article.
A bit of a look at the heater today made me realize how complex the system is, It would appear that there are at least 3 flaps inside the box one of which is activated by the heat knob which also turns on the hot water tap. As you said the 411 has the flow through fresh air vents as well. I may yet have to pull it out and apart to work it out,which i suspect cont be an easy job. |
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![]() You will find the article I mentioned in the Bristol Owners Club Bulletin Number 142, dated Autumn 2011 and the good news is that it actually describes a 411 heater and ventilation system, not an earlier model which is what my memory told me.
I found it extremely useful when I had the 410s heater out to replace seals etc. The heater box itself is apparently identical. Two points I found that there was a very simple gravity flap on the 410s heater which opens a direct path into the heater box from the air intake in front of the windscreen when the pressure in the former overcame the pressure supplied by the fan. So at speed the air doesn't all have to pass through the fan. I don't see any reference to this in the article, perhaps the 411 was different. I also discovered that the foam on this flap had long since perished causing it to close at intervals with a surprisingly loud, rather alarming and previously untraceable clang. I see I marked up the copy that found its way into my workshop manual, at the bottom of page 27 to read "Slacken screw E ..........at the point F and retighten screw E" Trust you have a good tour Roger |
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![]() Peter
Am having difficulty responding to your private message with a private message, quote peter dowdle has chosen not to receive private messages or may not be allowed to receive private messages. Therefore you may not send your message to him/her. Unquote It would certainly be easier to see how everything interacts with the heater out, but you will need to dive under the dash to disconnect the demister ducts. I highly recommend taking the relevant seat AND its runners out first which will save a lot of pain, not that it will be a doddle then. And then some of the ducts may turn out to be perished and so it goes on 2BA spanners are essential, an adjustable will drive you nuts! I seem to recall that the fan mountings are no more than substantial sleeved grommets so these are probably worth investigating further before paying high prices My regards Roger |
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![]() Peter,
Did you resolve your heater issues? There are a couple of photos in this thread that I took many years ago of the heater linkages in situ. It appears that the heater control cable only acts on the hot water valve. I have the heater box out of my (your old) 411 S5, having since fitted air conditioning. I can't find it at the moment, but I know I have it somewhere. Let me know if you still have questions re the heater and I will endeavour to find it. Kevin |
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![]() Thanks Kevin
Im now on top of what to do with my heater, The article in the UK Club magazine that Roger pointed me to is excellent. I have established that my controls are set correctly and that i have a good flow of hot water yet when the car is out on the road very little warmth comes through.While the car is stationary hot air pours into the cabin even through the fresh air vents, Clearly the seals on the flaps inside the heater box have collapsed causing the cold air to mix with the hot air. This week I plan to pull the heater box out and recondition it. Regards Peter Dowdle. NB When i get it apart and cant put it back together I might come calling, |