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| 8 & 10 cyl Bristol cars Type 407 onwards - restoration, repair, maintenance etc |
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30-01-23, 05:02 PM
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On my car definetly not. On the front subframe there was not a single BSF bolt. I collected all the original screws and measured them, then bought new ones. all UNF. Very strange...
I found a few BSf bolts on the rear axle and its suspension. But even the studs for the swingarm housings were UNF. Quote:
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30-01-23, 11:39 PM
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Quote:
 Maybe I am making assumptions! It was 20 years ago and I must admit I didn't measure every nut or bolt, and some of the work was done by a third party. I'll have to go back and look at what he supplied and what I bought from Bristol. I know for sure that the "thin turret nuts" that secure the upper wishbones to the crossmember were bought from Bristol and they were 1/2" BSF.I was given the impression by Bristol at the time that many suspension parts carried through from the 407, 408 & 409 to the 410 and 411 (and probably the 412). Certainly many of the parts I bought from Bristol for my 411 had 407-409 part numbers. Is it possible your car had already had restoration work done and someone had already replaced most the BSF nuts and bolts with UNF? Regards, Kevin
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03-02-23, 07:51 AM
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Darn! You got me… I was a bit over-enthusiastic in my statement „not a single BSF“. Yes the thin turret nuts are definitely BSF. I had these nuts glass-blasted and zink plated, so these were not on my list. Sorry for that..
Regards Thomas Quote:
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03-02-23, 07:53 PM
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Just to let you know I am stalled for a bit trying to work out how to remove the overtightened, hard to access and oddly shallow bolts holding the crossmember to the front of the main chassis rails. We have guests for a few days too so I won't be touching the car until next week.
David
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13-02-23, 09:25 PM
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Progress. After many days of soaking the offending bolts with PB Blaster (penetrant), the 18 bolts holding the crossmember to the front of the frame rails have all been loosened ready for removal. The steering U-Joint has been disconnected from the steering box and the tubular frame ahead of the crossmember is all loosened up too.
One challenge remains before I try to actually remove the crossmember: there are bolts holding the inner fender wall to the top of the crossmember and, so far, I haven't got any of them out. There are 4 each side on the 408 (I think later cars only had 3) and they are partially hidden by a large ridge on the top of the crossbeam. It makes getting a socket on there impossible. So I will have to put a wrench there and use the socket inside except the clearances by the manifolds don't leave room for a socket there either on the rear two bolts each side! I attempted to cut the head off one bolt but I was trying to be sure I didn't cut the metal the bolt passes through and didn't cut far enough in so I cut the head, not the threaded neck!!!! I think I'll be able to do it with help and a neighbour has offered to assist later this week. David
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14-02-23, 06:05 AM
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Hi David,
I used an angle grinder with a thin disc to grind off the heads. Don’t worry about the sheet metal of the inner fenders a lot, when you have the front crossmember out you will anyway clean and repaint them .. Regards Thomas
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14-02-23, 04:16 PM
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Quote:
David
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