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8 & 10 cyl Bristol cars Type 407 onwards - restoration, repair, maintenance etc

408 front subframe / crossmember removal

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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 22-01-23, 03:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thomas591 View Post
Hi David,

I think you got it pretty well sorted. I just did this job about 8 weeks ago.
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Thomas, thank you for your informative reply. It's very reassuring to know I am on the right track.

David
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Old 22-01-23, 10:55 PM
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Thomas a great job. I noticed the Spax Shock Absorber do you also have them on the rear of the car ? I would much appreciate the numbers of both and any experience you have had with them. Did you consider Koni and would you have a listing on those as well. My 411 has aftermarket gas units on the back which you pump up with compressed air to compensate for the disconnected self levelling system. You unfortunately need to pump them up regularly as they do not hold pressure very well.

Regards Peter Dowdle
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Old 22-01-23, 11:49 PM
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Thomas, to help me plan, do you have any estimate of that crossmember's weight, please?

David
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Old 23-01-23, 07:54 AM
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Hi David,

I would estimate that the bare crossmember, without any suspension or steering components, weights around 25-30 Kg. I was just about able to carry it all by myself, but preferred a helping hand to put it on the workbench.

Regards

Thomas
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Old 23-01-23, 07:56 AM
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Hi Peter,

I have no experience on the Spax units, as the car is still lacking it’s drive train. The part numbers can be found in my parts list in the resource section.
Yes, I fitted new Spax shocks also to the rear.

Regards

Thomas

Quote:
Originally Posted by peter dowdle View Post
Thomas a great job. I noticed the Spax Shock Absorber do you also have them on the rear of the car ? I would much appreciate the numbers of both and any experience you have had with them. Did you consider Koni and would you have a listing on those as well. My 411 has aftermarket gas units on the back which you pump up with compressed air to compensate for the disconnected self levelling system. You unfortunately need to pump them up regularly as they do not hold pressure very well.

Regards Peter Dowdle
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Old 23-01-23, 12:02 PM
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Thank you, Thomas.

David
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Old 24-01-23, 02:15 AM
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David,
While you have got the suspension disassembled I suggest you examine the bolt holes in spring seat pans for stress cracks.

I would also recommend that you mark the fulcrum brackets and scribe their position on the crossmember before removal

Assuming the suspension hasn't been rebuilt in the recent past, the wedge/distance pieces which sit on top of the springs may need replacing along with the steel and rubber rings used to isolate the coil springs.

Bristol Cars Services recommended using new turret nuts when re-fitting the wishbones (they are a special half-height turret nut).

I wrote a few posts about my experience with the front suspension which you might find helpful http://www.bristolcars.info/forums/8...uspension.html

Regards,

Kevin
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Old 24-01-23, 03:37 AM
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Thanks, Kevin. All helpful except the flat area where the fulcrum brackets sit is rusted away. That's why the whole subframe has to come out for repair. Odd place to have rusted but that's the way it is.

I made a start stripping the parts today. Righthand shock and spring are out. I will check the pans as you suggest.

David
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Old 24-01-23, 03:44 PM
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Here's a picture of the rusted area on my subframe.

David
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 408 front suspension 11-26-22 (6) (Copy).jpg (83.9 KB, 26 views)
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Old 24-01-23, 06:02 PM
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I can confirm this! After sandblasting the spring pans, one had rust damage and both had stress cracks as described. I cut out all damage and reinforced the spring pans with new material on the stress points.

Regards

Thomas

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin H View Post
David,
While you have got the suspension disassembled I suggest you examine the bolt holes in spring seat pans for stress cracks.

I would also recommend that you mark the fulcrum brackets and scribe their position on the crossmember before removal

Assuming the suspension hasn't been rebuilt in the recent past, the wedge/distance pieces which sit on top of the springs may need replacing along with the steel and rubber rings used to isolate the coil springs.

Bristol Cars Services recommended using new turret nuts when re-fitting the wishbones (they are a special half-height turret nut).

I wrote a few posts about my experience with the front suspension which you might find helpful http://www.bristolcars.info/forums/8...uspension.html

Regards,

Kevin
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Old 24-01-23, 08:24 PM
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I took the second spring out today.

I looked at the spring pans. They need proper cleanup that may reveal cracks but I could see no sign of any today. Amazingly, the lower spring seats both seem to be reusable. The upper wedges and spring seats are just not there at all. I do have new ones to fit when I reassemble.

Try as I might, I could not get the spring pan to lower staying parallel to the wishbones (see pic) but it came down ok anyway.

I know the Spax part numbers for shocks but can anybody identify this Koni that was fitted?

David
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 4. Spring pans (Copy).jpg (124.9 KB, 20 views)
File Type: jpg 5 Left shock (Copy).jpg (111.7 KB, 18 views)
File Type: jpg 2 Left spring in process (Copy).jpg (79.8 KB, 18 views)

Last edited by dwomby; 24-01-23 at 08:32 PM.
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