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| 8 & 10 cyl Bristol cars Type 407 onwards - restoration, repair, maintenance etc |
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22-01-23, 02:39 PM
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Hi David,
I think you got it pretty well sorted. I just did this job about 8 weeks ago. My advice: Take photos of everything, specially about the position of the washers on the wishbone mountings. Don’t mix them up, put them in labeled plastic bags. To remove the steering is straightforward. First, while the subframe is still in place , remove the steering arm from the steering box. Everything else is really logical. No need to cut and weld anything, at least on the 411.(sorry, but in my opinion someone who does this „cutting and welding“ is just to lazy to do a good job). While doing this subframe removal I suggest that you inspect and if necessary replace all metalastic bushes etc. I send all parts to be bead blasted and repainted. You will never be able to access all the parts so easily again. After finishing don‘t forget to have the track aligned. I have attached some pictures of the job I have done. Regards Thomas . 
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22-01-23, 03:31 PM
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Quote:
David
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22-01-23, 10:55 PM
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Thomas a great job. I noticed the Spax Shock Absorber do you also have them on the rear of the car ? I would much appreciate the numbers of both and any experience you have had with them. Did you consider Koni and would you have a listing on those as well. My 411 has aftermarket gas units on the back which you pump up with compressed air to compensate for the disconnected self levelling system. You unfortunately need to pump them up regularly as they do not hold pressure very well.
Regards Peter Dowdle
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23-01-23, 07:54 AM
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Hi David,
I would estimate that the bare crossmember, without any suspension or steering components, weights around 25-30 Kg. I was just about able to carry it all by myself, but preferred a helping hand to put it on the workbench. Regards Thomas
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23-01-23, 07:56 AM
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Hi Peter,
I have no experience on the Spax units, as the car is still lacking it’s drive train. The part numbers can be found in my parts list in the resource section. Yes, I fitted new Spax shocks also to the rear. Regards Thomas Quote:
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24-01-23, 02:15 AM
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David,
While you have got the suspension disassembled I suggest you examine the bolt holes in spring seat pans for stress cracks. I would also recommend that you mark the fulcrum brackets and scribe their position on the crossmember before removal Assuming the suspension hasn't been rebuilt in the recent past, the wedge/distance pieces which sit on top of the springs may need replacing along with the steel and rubber rings used to isolate the coil springs. Bristol Cars Services recommended using new turret nuts when re-fitting the wishbones (they are a special half-height turret nut). I wrote a few posts about my experience with the front suspension which you might find helpful http://www.bristolcars.info/forums/8...uspension.html Regards, Kevin
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24-01-23, 03:37 AM
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Thanks, Kevin. All helpful except the flat area where the fulcrum brackets sit is rusted away. That's why the whole subframe has to come out for repair. Odd place to have rusted but that's the way it is.
I made a start stripping the parts today. Righthand shock and spring are out. I will check the pans as you suggest. David
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24-01-23, 06:02 PM
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I can confirm this! After sandblasting the spring pans, one had rust damage and both had stress cracks as described. I cut out all damage and reinforced the spring pans with new material on the stress points.
Regards Thomas Quote:
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