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6 cyl Bristol cars Type 400 to 406 - restoration, repair, maintenance etc |
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![]() Someone in Australia told me not to use Pearlcraft and they are twice
the price of Myrtle who does mostly R-R, Bentley and Jaguar woodwork and steering wheels. Lots of owners of these cars have jewellery that scratches the lacquer. I don't but my steering wheel is flexible in all directions unlike the later ones. I understand this was because Brooklands was extremely bumpy as were the cars of that era (so is the 400 for that matter!) and it made it easier to hold on to the steering wheel at speed. I had a racing AJS motorcycle that was fitted with handlebars like a small car leaf spring for the same reason. I'd definitely use Myrtle for the job and I think he is as good as any you'll find, Bluemells Brooklands wheels aside and I don't know a solution for those. Rich has completely rebuilt a couple of 400 seats for Ivor Thomas's car and it is a hell of a lot better than the standard ones but higher. The springs were too weak in the original, there was nothing underneath to support them, there wasn't enough horsehair padding and the backrest gave no lumbar support at all. He partly rebuilt mine using the original Bristol cover, but it's not the same as a complete job, so if I can find some of the original Moquette (we have a source of original type leather) I'll get the whole thing done because it will transform the car. It goes like stink and cruises at well over eighty, but needs to be more comfortable IMO. Ash |
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![]() Quote:
Ashley, if you are going to put a company down, at least tell us which one of the 20 million people in Australia made this claim, and why you should not use Pearlcraft. I must must be missing something here. Does this have any relevance to restoring steering wheels? Last edited by Kevin H; 24-04-09 at 01:06 PM. |
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![]() Peter,
Yes of course. I am hesitant to send it out of the country as I would miss it terribly of lost so I will be looking closer to home. To some extent a new wheel has it's attractions as it is an instant cure and I keep the old wheel. Just the cost looks high. Alan /Pegasus Hunter... I have redone repaired wheels in the past and happy enough with the results. They were on Mercedes and BMW were the whole wheel is coated / plastic and there were cracks and bits missing. On the 400 I haven't figured out how to get the 3 spokes plated without destroyng the covering. I would then have to start with a bare skinny metal rim. My skills are not that good and I would be staring at my mistakes as I motor along! Horror! Dorien |
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![]() I'm sorry wish I hadn't said
it now especially as they seem really friendly when I spoke to them. They were twice the price of Myrtle and I can't remember who put me off. Ash |
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![]() Ash,
I probably warned you about at least two BOCA members who had problems with Pearlcraft in Australia. Patching a cracked wheel rim can only be a temporary fix . To do the job properly all the original plastic material needs removing and the rim replaced with stainless steel or bead blasted &plated . The cracking of the plastic is sometimes caused by the original steel rim rusting & expanding . For a 400 type rim I suggest one buys a new wheel , if available ,which can be attached to a original hub ,the three spokes are usually pitted under the chrome. The new wheel should outlast all the individual members of this Forum. About 20 years ago a member of the BOCA here in Sydney rebuilt his own 401 steering wheel . Completely removed all the plastic rim , made a rough mould out of three pieces of plywood or cheap compressed board , suspended the rim in the centre of the mould then poured the mould full or Araldite two pack glue . Once hard smashed the mould and hand filed the rim , finishing with various grades of sand paper , then painted with a good quality two pack paint. The 401 went to UK some years later so I cannot comment on how well it has lasted , but it was a very inexpensive option just taking some time, it certainly looked perfect. Geoff |
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![]() Myrtle peel the cracked plastic off the spokes but leave the rim and
mask it, then they have the spokes polished and chromed. Finally they mould resin back over the spokes and up to the rim and then Polyester lacquer and polish it. The problem is that the original material was celluloid, which is more flexible and less crack prone. However, although there was/is a Brit company that re-celluloids I couldn't find them and wouldn't have used them because they'd done the wheel on one of my MKVIs and I'd seen others that were peeling and had faded to grey and gone splotchy. Alpine Eagle and many of the serious restorers simply fill the cracks, two pack paint and polish wheels with great success, or if they are bad enough they send them off to a company in Liverpool who re-cast the rim in aluminium and paint it. Therefore any later Bristol wheels are probably best done with two-pack after filling, but I don't think Myrtle make the original Bluemels type, instead I think they offer, as many do, the type of wheel used on racing Jaguars and Aston Martins of the time. There are Bluemels restorers but not for our type of wheel, only MG ones. I hope this helps. Ashley |
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![]() Quote:
Kevin |