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| 6 cyl Bristol cars Type 400 to Type 406 |
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Before I contact Brian M for a possible new-old wood fillet replacement for the rear window of my 401 ~ does anyone know of or can suggest an improved substitute?
The original wood fillet appears to have been manufactured (?) from a number of multi-layered (laminated) plywood segments ~ mine disintegrated on removing the metal finisher. (surround) Due to the compound curves of the surround a ridge one piece fillet would be difficult to fabricate without an engineering drawing ~ unless you know otherwise. Brian |
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I have to attend to my rear window soon, the glass just about hanging in
there, my plywood frame had a dry rot look about it and crumbled also, it does look as if this frame was engineered to support the glass around its periphery, as the sealing compound, (some kind of window putty cocktail) had little adhesive effect, I'll use Tiger seal, or something similar intended for modern bonded screens, this stuff sticks a bit too well, then a dozen or so wooden blocks to hold the glass while the sealant hardens, and somewhere to screw the surround down, I'll do a dry run first. |
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Hi Des ~ I didn't expect to be the only one with the problem. I have
experimented with replacement blocks (fillets) but not too happy with the result. The fillets need to be secured to the window frame, the original being held by self tap screws. The fillet also provides means of attaching the head lining. Please let me know how you get o |
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When the fillet was made at Bristol it was over size both on the outside
that fits into the steel frame, and on the inside where the roof lining is trapped between the wood and the aluminium finishing strip. The method of fitting the wood frame which has two functions first to hold the glass in position and secondly to form an attachment point for the roof lining, is to use a spoke shave or similar tool to obtain a fit of the wood in the frame. The inner side can then be formed using the aluminium finishing strip as a gauge and allowing for the thickness of the roof lining. When the car was made the window was sealed using a mixture of 50% Bostic C and 50% Dum Dum, however there are modern materials now. These wooden frames only fail when the seal gives way and lets in the water, this can be detected by water finding its way into the boot, so if this is the case act on it before you loose too much of the frame. Hope this is of help, my regards, Bellerophon |
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I had to re -seal the rear window on my 403 a couple of years ago. I bonded
the glass in place with a modern glass adhesive. As you will know, modern car screens are secured this way. This glass will not require holding in place whilst it sets as it has very good 'grab' qualities, and it will not leak. An inner frame is required to fix the headlining to, and to hold the aluminium trim. I made this up from strips of Millboard. This is a very dense cardboard type of material which is used for glove boxes etc. and can be built up to the required thickness using Evostik or similar between layers. You can use the 'inner' suface of the alluminium trim to wrap the board around, to give the correct shape, and keep adding layers until the correct thickness is achieved. It can be trimmed as necessary with a sharp blade when the glue is dry and then screw into place in the same way as the original timber, and is hard enough to hold staples to secure the headlining. I hope this is helpful. Mike. |
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some 30 years ago i had the same problem with my 401
to fix it i cut out a block of timber the shape of the opening using the old timber strip a a guide took it to a cooper ( makes wine barrels) he cut out a strip of timber and steam moulded it to fit the pattern i had made i then raspt some taper into it to fit to window opening worked just fine regards peter dowdle |
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Hi Mike ~ Thanks for your suggestion. Woolies of Cambridgeshire sell
Millboard as door card with a special black finish at 2.3 mm thick. I've estimated that the fillet should be 2 cm so should be able to laminate fairly simply. Now to find a local stockist. Brian |
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I still have a full sheet of Woolies black faced milboard and have use it
in the past for interior panels, however, from my experience I would not think it would be the best material for the job. too much like cardboard and it tares. I would make a frame up using the aluminium finishing strip as a pattern, but with something with a little more body in it. My regards, Bellerophon |
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For the past 2 years I have been plagued with the problem of water entering the boot of my 403. I dismissed the rear window seal as the culprit as everyone agreed that it looked in good order, added to which the rear window blind which is furled directly under the window, never seemed to be damp. I purchased, at a considerable cost, a series of rubber seals, edge trims, weatherstrips and other gadgets every few months. They failed one after the other to cure the leak. I poked my nose into the boot of every aerodyne that came my way and of which the owner was prepared to listen to my tale of woe. Frustratingly, although some had edge strips and similar in place, most had no seals of any sort in the boot edge or boot lid. Nobody else had a boot leak. Mike Davies even showed me the carpet ( !!!! ) in his boot – never once got damp. That depressed me further.
On Nov 8th. Bellerophon wrote, >>These wooden frames only fail when the seal gives way and lets in the water, this can be detected by water finding its way into the boot>> This inspired me to route out the old seal around the rear window and renew it. I waited five days for rain and none came ( yes – it's true ) so today I hosed the rear window and boot for five minutes. Not a drop of water in the boot ! The acid test will be when I drive in a downpour but I'm hopeful. Thank you Alan. So there must be a lesson here for all aerodyne owners. If you suffer a leak into the boot – change the rear window seal before doing anything else. It could save a lot of heartache. Dave Dale. |
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