View Single Post
  #88 (permalink)  
Old 23-05-22, 07:48 PM
Roger Morrall Roger Morrall is offline
Join Date: Jul 2021
Posts: 50

Originally Posted by DODD View Post
I am getting a little confused, which isnít difficult!.
So am I! I donít understand what you are trying to adjust on the outer track rods, they only (I say only, but they are of course vital to the whole scheme of things) connect the steering arm on the hubs to the drop arms. They affect no element of the steering geometry. They donít need adjusting, they just need doing up tight and leaving well alone until such time as a track rod end needs to be changed and thatís the only time they ever need to be touched. "Adjusting" them would affect toe in / toe out of course but would be extremely tedious and thatís not what theyíre there for. Since they affect no element of steering geometry in themselves - leave them well alone.

One of the drop arms is connected to the steering box, the other to an idler box. The two drop arms are connected to each other by the central track rod which carries a left hand thread at one end and a right hand thread at the other. Toe in/out is readily adjusted by loosening off the lock nuts and rotating the central rod one way or the other.

Can I refer you to the relevant page of the 410 spares handbook on this forum Resources - Bristol Cars - Owners and Enthusiasts Forum which illustrates the various parts Iím referring to

If by "tracking" you mean you are seeking to get the steering wheel to match the actual straight ahead position of the wheels this is very readily achieved, after having set the toe in, by taking a careful note of the position of the s/wheel when the car is tracking straight (which is much easiest done on a short test run on the road) and then relocating the steering wheel appropriately on its splines. This is dead simple when you know how, let me know if any further advice is required.

Hope this is some help and that I donít sound too bossy.

Reply With Quote